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| Khoo Kongsi Temple Penang |
Enriched by an enthralling colonial past embellished by its overseas Chinese heritage, this island paradise has a legacy of magnificent mansions, temples, dynastic family houses and plenty of cultural leftovers restaurants, boutique hotels and antique shops. The island is thus a favorite of travelers in search of rich cultural fare that has nevertheless not been left behind.
Now a listed UNESCO World Heritage site, Penang was founded in 1771 by Captain Francis Light of the British East India Company. It began as a trading post but soon became an important port due to its strategic position in the trade routes from north, south, east and west. It served as a safe haven for settlers from the four corners of the world bringing their customs and beliefs that have enriched the culture of modern Penang today. The Chinese are the largest immigrant group but there is no shortage also of others.
Chinese heritage is prominently expressed through beautiful temples, mansions and clan houses which serve as administration centres for various clans that originated from China. A keen observation of the splendor of these heritage buildings reveals that Feng Shui masters of days of yore had a big hand in designing and advising the owners.
As a die-hard Penang fan, I am enthralled by every street that tells a story, and if buildings could speak, what a tale they would tell. History ooze from every pore of the island, and there are many big feasts and year-long festivals. Penang is the food capital of modern day Malaysia with its wide variety of cuisine influenced by its diverse population, in particular the Nonyas, a unique race descended from inter marriage between immigrant Chinese and local Malays.
Nonya cuisine is famous throughout Malaysia. The street food scene is a visual feast with its cacophony of roaring gas stoves firing up the woks as hawkers stir fry Penang's famous street fare, char kway tiau, a flat rice noodle garnished with bean sprouts, prawns and clams with lashings of soya sauce, or pan frying the yummy oyster omelets. This could even be Penang's very own specialty dish!
Tourists need not be put off by grubby-looking kopitiams otherwise known as street cafes, as their not too salubrious ambiance belies their culinary prowess. Most of the island's favorite foods are to be found in these outlets. And then there is George Town, the capital city. Here visiting incense smoked filled temples, bustling markets, fragrant spice shops of Little India and splendid heritage buildings make exploring a delightful activity.
When the heat and humidity drain me, you can take a trishaw ride to whiz round the city in an very charming way indeed. Very eco-friendly mode of transport as its skilful rider will wheel you round narrow streets flanked by traditional shop houses that boast propitious double doors. This is when you get to see walls adorned with brightly colored tiles, made into a mosaic of intricate patterns of phoenix, cranes, bamboo, plum flowers and peonies, all symbols of good fortune to bestow luck on occupants.
Many buildings have a luscious display of citrus and money plants to attract prosperity. Pa Kua Feng Shui mirrors are installed over many front doors to deflect lamp posts or sharp edges from triangular roof lines, while others display fu dogs or stone lions as door guardians. It is all very old style feng shui indeed.
Perhaps one of the grander landmarks of Chinese heritage is the Khoo Kongsi Temple in Cannon Square. No expense was spared to build this monument of the Khoo clan from Sin Kang village in the Fukien province of southern China in 1906. Skilled artisans summoned from China then created quite a spectacular clan house which has also been lovingly restored so that its characteristic baroque design of late Ching dynasty of Chuan Chew architectural style are evident.
Feng Shui Masters are said to have been consulted so it is no surprise that the temple was built in a typical armchair configuration, which enjoys a spacious ming tang or open space, supported by a high wall at the back and flanked on each side by lesser buildings.
Across the vast courtyard stands a Chinese theater facing the temple, ostensibly to protect it from the rush of traffic of the main road. Yards from the entrance, standing on concrete plinths are the cosmic guardians of temples and homes - the fearsome Chilins, also known as temple lions. The temple is accessed through a flight of stairs to a portico supported by an auspicious number of eight columns.
Red Chinese lanterns with auspicious calligraphy are suspended from the ceiling to attract benevolent spirits to the ancestral hall. The front of the edifice is ornately decorated with magnificent dragons twirling round columns, friezes depicting Chinese legends while good fortune symbols adorn the whole facade.
At the threshold of the temple, a green dragon on the left and a white tiger on the right protect the door into the temple. The most awe inspiring feature of this temple is the horn-shaped roof, which is lavishly decorated with green and blue dragons intertwined among mythological figures, flowers and birds, crafted from pieces of colorful porcelain. Today, the Khoo clan is one of the wealthiest communities in Penang. This ends Part 1 of Khoo Kongsi Temple Penang. To find out more, you can check out the next post.